My Birthday Dinner at Pops for Champagne

I am a very, very lucky girl. Last week, I shared one of the best meals with a very intimate group of delightful people. I’ve also acquired new favorite quote:
“I used to drink champagne on special occasions until I realized that life is a special occasion”
It was a very special evening – we got to be the first to try the Summer Menu prepared by the new brilliant chef, Andrew Brochu of Pops for Champagne. I was told that I should keep this “hush” as my “hidden gem” but I am just not going to do that. Great food needs to be shared and true talent deserves attention.

As we arrived, Randy came floating and brought a whiff of magic along (being champaign wizard he is). We started with small cups of creamy chickpea soup with fried chickpeas. Now; I’ve had some baaad chickpea experiences in my life among them a stifling soup which made me speechless (and not with awe) for few good hours. This was a mind-opening dish. Eyes closed and in one tiny swoop I was presented with intense notes of mushrooms and vanilla with attention-grabbing saltiness. Next, came the crunchy on the outside and creamy on the inside garbanzo beans (posing as miniature roasted chestnuts). Right than I was awakened and ready to try the full flavors of Summer.

Still, I wasn’t quite ready for the next presentation. A row of tiny canopies arrived sitting pretty on a magnum-size champagne bottle. “World’s most smallest fleet” I thought since it looked like a miniature boat. The bite-size delicacies we’ve gingerly picked up were slices of rabbit pate with young garlic marmalade crowned with blackberries. A dish small but mighty in flavor and one that started the “uhmmmmms” and the “oohhhs” at our table. In an ideal world, I would be eating these velvety bites for breakfast.

One look and you could tell that we all cried for more but than were quickly consoled with a frothy touch of Mumm Cordon Rouge. So we’ve kept it zipped knowing that something really big is about to happen next and melted in a glee when Randy (or Professor “Bubbly”) landed elegant Asian dishes with a picture-worthy presentation of Spring on a plate. It arrived in fresh colors and clean flavors – tiger shrimp sitting on big muscular portion of a heirloom tomato, topped off with slender anchovies and surrounded by crunchy fava bean.

We thought we’ve had this dish figured at one glance yet it took us by surprise. It didn’t hurt that it came wrapped in a delicious 2002 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin.

With our taste buds awakened and bubbles rushing through our veins, we were opened for yet more surprises. Than, a fragrance of curry arrived before the dish itself. A perfectly balanced play on Indian flavors- the scallop had a subtle crunch on the outside and was all creamy softness on the inside.

It was like taking a bite out of Summer while sipping the crisp Piper Heidsieck Extra Sec.

Next dish arrived and it was so intriguing that our photographer abandoned his duties so you will have to rely on your imagination. Three slivers of translucent ruby meat, each framed by a delicate crust of tiny dark beads topped off with the frothy white substance. Is it tuna or beef – was the question? A small section of melon suggested that it may just be a carpaccio while a sweet white foam and pickled ginger pointed towards seafood. Not to mention crunchy beads on the rim of each ruby petal which turned out to be …cloves! This one tease of a dish turned out to be elk carpacchio with cantaloupe, pickled ginger and honey. Everyone cooed in unison after this small wonder, especially since it arrived in an intriguing company of 2000 Palmes d’or Rose. Never before I tasted pink champagne that was so dry and crisp as this one. Plus, it arrived in commanding black bottle – a perfect lamp- base material.

Just when we thought that our chef’s magic hat was out of tricks for the evening, a gorgeous serving of luscious dusk with foie gras presented itself in all it’s fragrant glory.

This was a moaning dish- the duck was succulent and popping with crisp skin and great texture, the foie- soft and creamy. This strong duet was accented by maitake mushrooms and big blueberries with green onions which we’ve taken for ramps. This luxurious dish was served along Francois Peyrot Pineau Des Charentes – my favorite after dinner treat – subtly pear flavored brandy.

The evening would be beautiful if it ended here but no.
Not many chefs dare to play with desserts- this one has a plenty of courage and we’re so glad he does!
For the grand finale he sent out a generous portion of a lovely shortcake topped off with clouds of whipped cream, lemon sorbet, and fresh strawberries. Six large spoons arrived and we began a communal experience of eating from one plate.

I was immediately transported to the past when as a little birthday girl I concocted secret plans of attacking my picture-perfect cake and devouring it with a messy and enthusiastic abandon. After eating so many prissy desserts with carefully arranged dibs of cocoa, souse paintings, and swinging berries this tower of sweet goodness was unpretentious, delicious, and pure fun to share. Not to mention that it was one of the best cakes I’ve ever had. It had a surprisingly buttery texture with almond aroma and hint of coconut. The whipped cream was fluffy, and strawberries were bursting with juice – needless to say; we’ve cleaned the plate. I was close to just licking it…

With happy smiles only 10 year-old candy addicts could understand, we’ve finished our evening with the lovely tulip of a Marenco 2006 Moscato d’ Asti. Randy was right – “Life is worth celebrating” so don’t wait for a special occasion to open that bottle of wine or champagne you’ve been saving for ever. Better yet, hurry to Pops to sample few dishes from the Summer menu but be fast – Chef Andrew is a culinary star on the rise – and next time you’ll catch his big smile and humble demeanor it may just be on “Top Chef”.

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