Two years ago, Pops for Champagne was a charming local spot with patio, big wooden bar, and a resident cat. It had plenty of an old world charm topped off with an outstanding champaign list and impressive live jazz. Drowned in a cigar smoke, the old Pops’ was a reclusive spot for wanna-be aficionados, yet offbeat enough for Billy Corgan of Smashing Pumpkins to celebrate his 40th b-day (I happened to be there the night of and watch the entire pandemonium ; )
The new Pops for Champagne is anything but offbeat. Long gone is the cat and cigar smoke. The new downtown location caters to two very different crowds – the lounge upstairs attracts plenty of corporate clients and somewhat seasoned daters while the underground jazz club – a mix of musicians, tourists, and artsy types.
I was pulled into Pops at the end of a long work week by a friend of mine. We were seated by the floor-to-ceiling window becoming both; the window display and the observer at once – I perked up immediately.
We were greeted by the very warm and attentive Randy. Over the course of the evening, he has shown not only his deep knowledge of wine but extreme sensitivity our palettes by suggesting drinks well matched with our food choices and comments.
The food was the biggest surprise. In the past, the menu at Pops took a backseat to the champaign list. Not anymore! The new executive chef, Andrew Brochu took a fresh and daring approach on crafting a menu symbiotic with the bubblies but strong enough to stand on it’s own. While it’s mostly seafood-centered, he does offer a sumptuous duck and coffee-crusted lamb.
We began with a shrimp dish which was a feast for the eyes. It’s funny how our sense of palette is divided – I eat with my nose and my eyes before my tongue gets the final approval so the visual is an important part of the experience. The colors were well combined on a plate – there was a radiant purple of radicchio complemented by a fleshy shrimp, accented by golden circles of mango and divided by small creamy clumps of soft mozzarella. The flavors were very interesting – upon first bite I was transported to Italy thanks to the strong earthy undertones of olives, and milky mozzarella, and suddenly meaty shrimps. That classic composition took a sudden twist with addition of radicchio and sweet ripe mango – a twist I really appreciated. I even took chef’s advise and sucked out the stuffing from shrimp’s head – not for timid, mind you!
Next, a lovely sculpture arrived which turned out to be an oyster served with raw quail egg yolk, vanilla sorbet, and finished with a tiny mint leaf. There was so much written about oysters and their sensuous qualities and I never really understood any of it until now… This was very delicate, ethereal study in liquid textures that once poured into the mouth delivered an array of flavors – first it was the cool, mineral and salty ocean breeze, washed over with delicate sweet vanilla foam, and cleansed with a fresh mint. It’s a very personal dish and it should be reserved for special occasion, I thought.
We finished off with a scallop sitting pretty in a pool of bright green fava bean puree and topped of with a sweet and crunchy skin of spring garlic. It was delicious and I secretly wanted to lick my plate -something I couldn’t really pull off in the new Pops. The menu (and the jazz) may just be the most intriguing and news-worthy part of the new Pops experience. I know I’ll be back for more…
As always, an entertaining read that showcases your passion for food and talent for descriptive, creative writing.