Eleven raising culinary stars, two mixologists, and one somalier preparing tasty dishes on the spot at the new lavish Trump Hotel- what could sound more exiting for a cold and dreary Monday evening in May? The ballrooms hugging Sixteen, the newly appointed golden child of the local restaurant scene were plush and contemporary in a safe “The Donald” style.
The chefs were set in separate stations with a small army of helpers braising, frying, and basting all kinds of wonders on portable burners. I started with salmon with apple and daikon from TRU which was surprisingly big and cumbersome to eat (this was a walk-around and eat-on-your feet affair and I was already clutching my purse, a glass of champaign, and an iPhone for documenting which never really took off. Perhaps the salmon was just too much of a crowd pleaser for me but I’ve quickly moved on to the oysters and fell in love at the first taste. They were soft in texture, enveloped in a crispy tempura with a hint of smoky bacon topper – a dish so scrumptious yet not heavy that I came back for it twice. Later on I’ve learned that some things just taste better when wrapped in bacon or smoked. The Wood Grilled Sturgeon from Blackbird was a fish pretending to be smoked meat. It reminded me the case of Perplexed Tofu from the recent episode of Top Chef when Richard Blais is brazing tofu in a beef fat (Watch it) accept that tofu has virtually no flavor to begin with and the whole theme was driven by an improv comedy show.
I know Blackbird has a strong and loyal following (you know who you are) in and out of Chicago – my New York bosses are big fans. I am glad to be living few blocks away from Avec & Blackbird – two hot spots that place us on a culinary map.
Next, we were presented with tasty but perhaps little too safe charred octopus from Sepia. Luckily, thanks to the culinary chameleon; Shawn McClain who is out to please the entire ideological culinary zoo – starting from the devoted vegetarians (Green Zebra) to carnivorous types (Custom House), and everyone in between (Spring). Luckily, he was nearby to prove that you can create an innovative dish by grilling prawns and serving them it in a creamy froth of a coconut broth with a hint of lemongrass. This dish was a single winner of the evening (the prawn alone was a masterpiece) – it evoke that strange feeling of familiar yet completely redefined. Only sweetbreads by Christopher Nugent from Les Nomades came close – dish so savory, deep yet not heavy that it put me in a cozy holiday-like mood in the middle of May.
As far as libations go, I was grateful to Josh Kaplan from MK who poured me a glass of a lovely Red Zinfandel.
My private star this evening goes to Toby Maloney, a mad alchemist from The Violet Hour for the most memorable potion served that night. It was called Juliet and Romeo and it was the most refreshing and delightful mixed drink I’ve ever tried! Hints of cucumber, mint, and rose water blended into Spring-in-a-glass experience. I look forward to returning to the Violet Hour – this lush and seductive place where all kinds of things are getting infused and blended together in the darkness.
And if you can’t visit Violet Hour, just watch Toby in action here (video courtesy of Chicago Reader’s Food Blog)
So, there it is – my first blog entry – please leave a comment. What’s next? I am taking on an a very grown up job of poking into the Holy Grail of Alinea and Grant Achatz. Why? First off- because it’s exiting to share the town with someone so extraordinary yet have my own little and controversial take on the topic. Plus; I’ve ran into at least two brilliant people (one chef and one somalier) who worked at Alinea and were Achatz’ disciples at some point in time. So I will take on an ambitious job of describing my offbeat Alinea experience, Chef’s Grant Achatz’s legendary “Beethoven’s syndrome”, Perman Wines, and one young executive chef on the local scene to be reckoned with…
